GYEON and ONYX ceramic coatings, machine paint correction and overspray removal for Yering drivers. We come to you, or you bring the car to our Berwick studio (39 km from Yering).
The Yarra Valley is hard on a finish in quiet ways. Around Yering it is morning fog that keeps a car wet for hours, dust that settles on the damp, and sap from the gums along the road. A coating is what stops that mix keying into the clear coat.
CDS is owner-operated. The person who looks at your paint is the person who corrects and coats it — Andy, with 30+ years of experience — so what you are quoted for Yering is exactly what gets done.
Around Lilydale Airport and Yering Bushland Reserve.
Eucalypts along the valley roads drop sticky, acidic sap that sets hard in the sun and etches a ring into unprotected clear coat.
Working utes and tow vehicles cop mud, feed and gravel rash. Coating the tray, canopy and paint makes the hose-down quick.
Gravel flicks up into the bonnet and sills. A coating does not stop chips, but it seals the paint around them so they are less of a way in for corrosion.
Unsealed side roads put a fine, abrasive film over the whole car. It has to be rinsed off, not wiped - wiping it dry is what scratches valley cars.
We inspect the paint under proper lighting and measure the clear coat, then tell you what it actually needs.
Iron-fallout treatment and a clay strip, so nothing is ever sealed in under the coating.
Machine polishing in measured stages to remove swirls and etching rather than fill them.
GYEON or ONYX applied panel by panel and cured under cover — in the studio, or in your garage on a mobile job — with the warranty registered.
CDS is mobile across Melbourne's south-east, Yering included, and also runs a studio in Berwick (39 km from you) if you would rather drop the car in. Valley mornings are foggy and the dew is heavy, so a coating has to cure under cover. A shed or garage makes a mobile job straightforward; without one, the studio is the safer choice. Mention your parking set-up when you enquire and Andy will say honestly which way gives the better result.
Usually. Fresh residue washes off; older spotting that has etched can normally be polished out. Coating afterwards makes the next lot much easier to deal with.
Yes - paint, trays, canopies, bars and trim. A coated working vehicle takes a fraction of the time to clean.
Soak them rather than scrub them, and do it soon after the drive. On coated paint they barely stick; etched marks can usually be polished out.